Thursday 30 April 2015

Vancouver: Big bridges, undulating roads, and the great cull

So I parted ways with my family at Atlanta airport to head west. First mishap as a solo traveller occurred within 10 minutes...little can ensue panic more than leaving your passport, boarding cards and travel insurance details in the cubicle of a bathroom in a fairly large airport. Incredibly, they were all still in that same cubicle when I hurtled back and followed a lady in there; she initially didn't comprehend my eagerness to join her.


And with that not so bright omen, I settled into my seat and enjoyed views of snow-capped mountains as the plane flew towards the golden hued skies of the west.


I have been incredibly fortunate to stay with my brilliant cousin David and his partner Uli while I've been based in Vancouver, a marvellous couple who have allowed me free reign of their apartment to prepare for my trip. They have been full of fantastic advice, and have fed me wonderful food, I feel incredibly fortunate to have met them!


I was itching to get out on my bike after nearly three weeks of zero cycling, so I've managed to put in a few good training rides. From pedalling through town and around Stanley park alone, I've learned that Vancouver is not only a bike friendly city (the buses have bike racks on the front bumper, so if you feel a bit tired you can simply rack it and hop on - brilliant!), it is also can create super fit people in a short space of time. How, I hear you ask? Well, it is stupidly hilly that's why. And I'm not talking just long slowly inclining hills, of which they also have plenty. I mean painfully steep, appear-out-of-nowhere, slap-you-in-the-face hills. Hills that give you neck ache when you're peering skywards to try and gauge where the road eventually flattens. The street that I'm staying on, is a prime example of said hill. Like I say, a great training ground for me and my legs.






I've managed to get out of the city for a few rides too. I headed up the sea to sky highway for an out-and-back ride to Squamish. Now that is a brilliant lumpy road, with incredible scenery. The road hugs the coastline, resulting in a stunning collision of rugged mountains and sparkling blue waters. It was resurfaced for the 2010 winter Olympics (being an important infrastructure link to Whistler) so the roads are silky smooth, and made for a great day of riding.



Both Vancouver and Squamish are at sea level. The road climbs and drops between these two places multiple times, so the ride had about 1400m climbing in total.






Cycling back into the city over the Lion's Gate Bridge was spectacular. After a long day in the saddle, to be greeted back with the beautiful cityscape that is Vancouver was enough to make me forget the ache in my legs and the 20km I had left to make it home again.



Lions gate bridge

Looking back towards downtown Vancouver from the Dunsmuir viaduct


I have also taken the opportunity to get kitted up with any bits and bobs I may need for my trip. And that involves shopping. The best kind of shopping. As I drifted through the doors of MEC, I could hear the hallelujah chorus pealing in my ears, and I drifted as though in a dream through rails of outdoor clothing, cycling gloves, sleeping bags, and climbing ropes.


Even after dragging myself back into reality to actually buy some important pieces of kit, this didn't stop me going back several times more...because its worth being TOTALLY sure that I have the right size dry sack with the optimum waterproofing level for my expedition....


I planned a mini trip to Vancouver island with a fully loaded bike just to get a feel for how heavy it is, and to see what sort of pace I can hold with all my gear. So I pedalled my way down to the ferry terminal, and oh dear lord my stuff weighs a ton!!



This two day trip of cycling maximum 100 miles inspired the great cull. So while the Tardis teapot was getting better acquainted with some of his own Canadian cousins, I got down to the painful business of working out what is absolutely necessary, and what can be done without. So beyond the camping gear, cycling gear, and of course, the teapot and teabags, everything was questioned as to its right to remain a part of the expedition.





As for the tea update? Vancouver has been a positive delight in this department. First and foremost, Uli is a big tea drinker, so much so even I could not get through her almighty stash. Secondly, tea is back on the menu at Starbucks. And finally, there are some marvellous little cafes serving some truly wonderful teas, such as Camellias in Burnaby, which has shelf upon shelf of loose leaf teas, rather like a bar with a large selection of spirits.


All in all, Vancouver has been brilliant. A great base for me to get ready for this rather epic adventure. Next stop for me? Well I'm rather hoping it's somewhere East. If it isn't, there could be something wrong here! Over and out.





Sunday 19 April 2015

Tennessee: A pit stop in the land of sweet iced tea

Hi y'all! I thought it was high time I did an update on my comings and goings so far.

The discerning amongst you will have realised that my family and I have traversed over the pond and plonked ourselves in East Tennessee for my cousin's wedding and a couple of weeks of sight seeing.
My cousin David marrying the beautiful Kate at the chapel on the hill, Oak Ridge
On the way there!

Outside the chapel

Well, what a marvellous place to visit. Very friendly people who 'just love the Irish accent' (oh yes, someone genuinely asked dad whereabouts in Ireland he was from!) And the food:WOAH! It's a really good job that I'm cycling across Canada this summer, my rapidly expanding waistline requires it as a matter of urgency!

Oh my god the milkshakes here soooo good! This was in Puckett's, Nashville

Everything is super sweet, even salads are covered in cheese and sweet dressings, and as for vegetables...I think they still exist? I glimpsed some once, across a crowded restaurant, but they were heavily disguised with so much sauce that I couldn't be sure.

Mum enjoying a light salad whilst I dived straight into local cuisine

Now, I did have slight concerns about visiting such a coffee-dominated country; they seem to drink a strange sweet iced tea here...I did try it. Hmmm.....let's move on shall we?

An example of the iced tea available...

As for hot tea? Well I've been armed with the tardis and a supply of tea which has been a source of hilarity for fellow guests at various breakfast sessions in motels. As for cafes that have tea? They are few and far between. I managed to scout out a lovely one in Nashville, which actually had a selection of leaf teas. I sat in a very comfy chair, satisfied with my brew and cake, opposite a group of knitters who were putting the world of corporation tax to rights.


We've been very lucky to catch a lot of live music while we've been here, the Rhythm and Blooms Festival in Knoxville, plenty of bands and acoustic performers in Nashville, including a storming rendition of Devil Goes Down To Georgia in the Tin Roof live music joint.

Enjoying some ice cream sandwiches (I know, amazing! I had cookie dough ice cream with cookies for the 'bread') at the Rhythm and Blooms Festival

Of course, its important to sample the slightly more eccentric music that was also on offer. I mean, who wouldn't want to miss the Tuvan throat singing performance at the Festival of Nations in Dollywood; initially hilarious, strangely hypnotic as time went on... And who would want to forget that time spent in a karaoke bar on Broadway in downtown Nashville: Bill, you're grasp of English may be nonexistent, but that didn't stop you performing above and beyond the regular drunk attempting to impersonate their favourite country singers.



Overall, it has been a memorable experience here in Tennessee. We've stopped off briefly over the state border in Asheville, North Carolina, before we wend our way back to Atlanta for flights home, or, in my case, onwards to Canada.

I was going to leave it there with this post, but I can't miss out Asheville now I've seen it, even in this, quite frankly, grim rainy weather!

I did some research on local bicycle shops in order to find a bike box for my onward journey...there's one shop that has flicked the v's at housing a cafe: this one has a fully stocked bar, including real ale on draught. Beer City Bicycles, you are amazing!







And as for the rest of the town, it's a place I'm already desperate to come back to; two days is not long enough! I really enjoyed how liberal the town felt, and it was very much in touch with its cultural side - plenty of art shops and galleries, along side alot of live music which had much more of a jazz feel. To top it off, there was a cafe that served tea in an actual teapot!!!  




Right. I think I am actually done now! Next time you'll hear from me, I'll be in Vancouver!! America, you've been brilliant. Let's see what Canada has in store for me. Y'all have a great day now!



Friday 3 April 2015

Well hello to you!

It's rather difficult knowing where to begin with this whole blog-writing malarky, but a few people (who will probably be sorry for asking when they read these rather poor introductory entries) have requested that I keep a blog so they can keep abreast with my next adventure.

If you've followed a link to this blog, you are probably already aware of my impending trip to Canada, having most likely been bored to death by my talk of training, kit and so forth; I endeavour to take and upload many pictures so you can pretend to have read the blog (don't worry, I won't be offended) and have plenty to chat about if the subject ever happens to arise.

So. The trip to Canada. I have decided to cycle across this spectacular country this summer...well I hope it is indeed spectacular, I will be quite disappointed if it isn't.

Anyway. The usual reaction when I tell people my plans follows along the lines of 'are you insane?' and 'but how will you fix a puncture?'. This is the general consensus, however when the occassional positive remark appears (along the lines of 'woah that sounds amazing!') it very much justifies my own reasoning for this trip - to those people, thank you!

As for my reasoning? I wanted to do something a bit different with my time, step out of my comfort zone, and enjoy some travelling while I have the time and flexibility in work to do so. Why Canada? I suppose I chose it because it is absolutely mahousive and sounds impressive when I say I've cycled across it. Also because it will be relatively safe (notwithstanding the bears) for a lady (in the broadest sense) to travel alone.

Yes, reader, I will be travelling alone for this excursion, an experience that I believe everyone should undertake at some point in their lives. As much as it is wonderful to have a companion to chat to, share the experiences with (highs and lows) and to reminisce with over a pot of tea when the journey is done, I feel that those experiences are heightened when travelling alone - you alone are responsible for your well being, when you choose to call it a day, or to pedal on into the growing darkness (lights aglow of course!) because you are feeling strong and capable of tackling that extra 15 miles to get to the next town.

I also feel that, as a lone traveller, I am more likely to look beyond my party of one for new people to talk to. I find that by myself, I will chat more readily to strangers, and I find strangers are more likely to make conversation with me. I have found this to be the case from my previous trip to Italy, where by the end of the trip I found myself able to chat quite comfortably in Italian about my trip to the old chaps sitting outside cafes with their espresso - please, however, do not ask me to try and speak any Italian now, it all faded rather quickly I'm sorry to say!

Right, one final thing I feel I should clear up before I sign off this first post. The teapot. Why take a teapot on travels with a bicycle, where luggage space is such a commodity? Simple answer. I LOVE TEA! Plus tea is infinitely better tasting when it is properly brewed in a teapot.

The fondly named Tardis teapot will be trekking with me and holding his own as we delve into camping (yes, this will be the first time I properly camp; cue next post on my pathetic attempts on getting familiar with camping gear) and will no doubt be my salvation on those cold mornings when only a cup of tea will help me pack up my life for the umpteenth time and hit the road.

So I think that will do for a first musing. I will no doubt fill you all in with more exciting info as I get closer to my departure.

.......not entirely sure how to sign off........

.......byeeeeeee!